Kedgeree: A Timeless British Brunch Favourite with Indian Roots

Khichdi, a one-pot dish made with rice and lentils, has been a staple in South Asian cuisine for centuries. The earliest written references to khichdi appear in the Indian epic Mahabharata, believed to have been compiled between the third century BCE and fourth century CE. British colonial officers and traders in India during the 17th and 18th centuries encountered khichdi and adapted it to their tastes. The lentils were eventually omitted, and the dish transformed into "kidgeri," which later became known as kedgeree in Britain.

The first known written instructions for making kedgeree were recorded by Scottish woman Stephana Malcolm in 1790. Her recipe used "cold boiled haddock" or "a bit of cod," along with "minced" hard-boiled eggs warmed in butter, seasoned with cayenne pepper. This dish was a reflection of the British adaptation of Indian culinary traditions during the colonial era.
Kedgeree's popularity in Britain grew during the Victorian era, where it became a sophisticated breakfast and brunch option. Its comforting qualities made it a favourite among the upper and middle classes. The dish was often served at "burra khanas," lavish feasts hosted by British officials in India, and later found its way to British tables.

Today, kedgeree is enjoyed not only for breakfast but also for brunch, lunch, or dinner. Its versatility allows for various adaptations, including vegetarian versions and the use of different types of fish. The dish's enduring appeal lies in its balance of flavours and textures, combining the smokiness of the fish with the warmth of the spices and the richness of the eggs.

How to Make Traditional Kedgeree
To prepare a classic kedgeree, you'll need the following ingredients:

450g basmati rice
500g smoked haddock
120g butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 green chilli, deseeded and cut into thin rings
2 crushed cardamom pods
1 tbsp curry powder
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut in half
Small handful chives, chopped
½ lemon, cut into 4 wedges
Small bunch of coriander, chopped

Method:
Rinse the rice under cold water, then place it in a large pan and cover with cold water. Leave for at least half an hour.

Drain the rice and discard the soaking water. Add the rice to a large pan with 585ml fresh water. Bring to the boil, stir, cover tightly, and reduce the heat to very low. Cook for 25 minutes, then remove from the heat. Do not lift the lid. Place the pan on a wet tea towel and leave for five minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork.

Place the smoked haddock, skin-side up, in a shallow pan and cover with boiling water. Allow to sit for 10 minutes ... remove from the water. When cool enough to handle, peel off the skin and flake the fish into large pieces.

Melt the butter in a large ... moderate heat. Add the chopped onion and fry gently until softened. Stir in the green chilli, cardamom pods, and curry powder. Cook for ... add the cooked rice and stir to coat. ... flaked fish and heat through. Taste and ... as needed.

Transfer the kedgeree to a serving dish. Arrange the halved boiled eggs on top, scatter with chopped chives and coriander, and ... lemon wedges.

Kedgeree stands as a testament to the fusion of British and Indian culinary traditions. Its rich history and comforting flavours continue to make it a cherished dish in British cuisine. Whether enjoyed in its traditional form or with a modern twist, kedgeree remains a delightful choice for any brunch occasion.